I had hoped to sail along Norfolk’s waterfront today, but my father couldn’t make it so, I decided to stay closer to home and headed north to the Yeocomico River. A still somewhat rural area on the south shore of the Potomac River, the river was a fantastic diversion.
I know the season is closing. I know the water is cold. Today’s air temperature however was in the mid 60s. Winds were 10-15 mph, gusting to 20-24. That, a picnic lunch, and one reef served to make it a near perfect day. At 11:00 I launched UNA from Olverson’s Marina ($5). They have two 16′ wide concrete ramps to choose from. Launch was easy. We sailed out past maybe two dozen cruising sailboats at dock and a couple sheds full of powerboats out into Lodge Creek. There were also covered land slips available for boating and camping. Perhaps and Old Bay Club event could be based here?
Olverson’s Marina
Winds were flukey in the creek initially. Lulls and blows. You had to be on your toes. No cleating of the mainsheet. Once out in the Yeocomico, I could see St. Marys River across the Potomac. Had I started earlier, I would have sailed across.
east lip of Yeocomico
west lip
entrance to Parkers Creek
Instead of braving the Potomac, we sailed past the mouth and into Parkers Creek for lunch. We went as far as Una would let us go, stirring up mud with board and rudder up. A bald eagle and great heron took flight at the tail end of the creek. Borrowing a small pier, we tied up, flatten mizzen and dropped the main for lunch. The sun’s warmth and light were perfect.
lunch tie up
Lunch done, we reached back down creek to explore the other fingers of this pretty river. The wind seemed to have moderated as we watched oystermen dredge their harvest.
oystering
This boat was an interesting pram bowed barge. Further on a group of workboats hugged the shore.
Having explored 4 of the 5 fingers making up the river, we headed back toward home. We passed a large fishing operation was to starboard.
A couple videos here give some of the flavor. Another glorious day on the water. I almost didn’t go.
If you hadn’t gathered, we typically sleep either in the bottom of our boats, or in a tent, and are forever rolling over because the sleeping bag has you notted up once again. Therefore, it can be quite disorienting to sail all day, enjoy cocktails, have a marvelous meal prepared for you and find yourself waking up in a queen sized bed. However, it was so for the inaugural cruise of The Old Bay Club. We’re basically a confederation of not so daring sailors who love their comforts and detest rules. Why Harris and Barbara were so gracious to open up their beautiful home to this motley crew, I’ll never know. For 2 1/2 days we were allowed to stay at their “bed and breakfast”. To come home rested after a great weekend of sailing was an unusual pleasure.
Our hosts and fellow club members: Barbara and Harris in their Caledonia Yawl Mabu.
From their place on the James River we 4 boats sailed downriver to see replicas of the three ships that began the settlement of the colony.
The original Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery set sail from London on December 20, 1606, bound for Virginia. The ships carried 105 passengers and 39 crew members on the four-month transatlantic voyage. A 17th-century source noted that a total of 71 people were aboard the Susan Constant, 52 aboard the Godspeed and 21 aboard the Discovery. The expedition was sponsored by the Virginia Company of London, a business venture that had been organized to form a colony in Virginia. The fleet reached the Virginia coast in late April and, after two weeks of inland waterway exploration, arrived at the selected settlement site on May 13, 1607.
Our voyage was not so world changing nor daring, but we did complete ours successfully. Winds were westerly for an off wind sail to and an easy 2-3 tacks home to weather. We practically hit the tidal current perfectly coming and going. Fall’s colors were near peak and the winds fairly gentle. Very nice.
UNA pushing the fleet.
skipper
1st mate
The sail downstream was maybe 1 1/2 hrs. We beached just upstream from the Jamestown ferry to stretch and have lunch.
Some of the gang.
Here’s an interesting contrast of boats and technologies. I wonder how the 3 ships stayed together as their sizes are so different.
The second day was spent drifting up the Chickahominy on the incoming tide. Now 5 boats, 4 of us even lost steerage at one point as Barry in his light Melonseed proceeded to sail away.
3 boats all headed for the same destination.
Winds never saw 5 mph, but the day was still a winner on such a beautiful river.
Barry before …
And Barry after. Way up ahead is Caesura’s red sail dead center in this pic.
We had a short lunch on a short beach among the cypress stumps. It was all other worldly.
The return faced the current and challenged the sailor. It demanded staying in the shallows and chasing stripes of wind on the water. The following day was grey with a drizzle. Some sailed. Some packed and went home. Great weekend. Thank you Barbara and Harris!
I’m sure as UNA ages her owner will favor more paint over varnish, but for now, he can’t “let her go”. One area of constant wear on the finish has been between the tiller extension and gunwale. Though the extension has a pronounced “hump” to clear the gunwale and smooth edges, it has regularly sawed off the rail’s finish. Just over an hour’s worth of work and $7 of scrap leather hopefully fixes the problem. For oar leathers, diamond hole chisels were purchased. Reused here, a long 30″ strip of suede was punched to be sewn onto the tiller.
chisel and scrap demo.
The strip width is 1/8″ shy of wrapping around the tiller. This allows one to draw the leather tight around the stick. Once punched, the leather was soaked in warm water for 10 minutes. Then the strip was dabbed dry and stitched with a double strand of waxed twine onto the tiller. Initially the stitches were on top of the stick. I moved them to the side before the leather dried too much. Looks better I think.
tiller extension with leather
close up
This should solve that problem. Now on to solving the slick floors with some anti-skid.
Katman and Little T met us in Oriental, NC ‘s public ramp next to the Route 55 bridge on Midyette Ave. About a dozen parked trailers indicates it is heavily used by fishermen in the area. This ramp is concrete and flanked by two nice floating piers. For the next three days, the winds are predicted to be out of the NE, shifting more easterly on the third day. Our goal, 40 miles away as the crow flies, was Ocracoke Island. That puts the wind on the nose outward bound. Around 10:30 we were rigged and under way.
The wind was crisp at 10 kts with gusts to 12-15. The NE direction was steady and only a few headers made tacking necessary with the inevitable Neuse River shoreline. It is a wide river with as much as a 5 mile girth in places. Once at the mouth, the wind dropped out. We anchored behind Swan Island on the north shore for the night. The evening gave a wonderful sunset while rafting and brilliant stars once we set tents for the night.
Una and Little T
At Swan Island
Katman (aka KMac)
At some point around midnight a motor boat roars into the anchorage which is protected by 1 foot shoaling at both ends of the island. I grabbed the flashlight, ready to point us out when the speeding boat was stopped as they dug up the bottom. Some choice country words were heard as the boat then slowly proceeded t the back of the small bay. They were out for the fish and could be heard having success as they came back rowing along the far shore. The mosquitoes were also out all night and only a towel over the head kept them at bay.
Morning was cool with winds strengthening. After coffee and rice cakes with peanut butter. We haul anchor, put in a reef, and head on out. Where the sound and river met was a confused sea state. It looked to be a rough and wet day. UNA did fine and gave no concern. At one point a stacked wave 5-6′ in height caught us off beat and UNA pierced the top to bring on a few gallons of water over the bow. Once past Brant Island Shoal Light, the waves became uniform as we rolled over the 3-4′ waves. I risked the phone for a video once waves and wind slowed.
Other than a few shrimpers and the occasional ferry, we saw no other boats. Not able to fetch Ocracoke we tacked above Cedar Island and again several other times negotiating the shoal waters along Portsmouth Island south of our destination. I don’t know if the waves had churned the waters to murky or if the cloudiness was typical, but even in 12″ of depth you couldn’t see the bottom. The centerboard took soundings. Winds abated as we sailed in the lee of Ocracoke and waves dissolved as we slipped in to survey Silver Lake. Once around the harbor and we tied up to the Community Pier which has an old shack housing an interesting waterman’s museum. Across from the pier was tied a Skipjack.
Skipjack “Wilma Lee”
Named the Wilma Lee, she is over 70 years old, donated to Ocracoke Alive, Inc. ( a non-profit), and is for hire to sail. She happens to be one of only 32 skipjacks left afloat out of a fleet of once 800. More of her history can be read here.
I hose off the salt from UNA, put on dry clothes, and we head to Dajio’s for a good dinner. Back at the pier we enjoy chatting with several of the locals. Like most small towns, Ocracoke is also suffering in this dismal economy. However there remains a strong pride int he locals who are hard working and now that Labor day has passed, may feel that their island is theirs once again. I suspect our mode of travel is our passport of acceptance by them.
Eventually we cast off and sail downwind under mizzen to the SE corner of the harbor for the night. New snaps for the tent have replaced the difficult velcro webbing and rusty “stainless” loops under the gunnel. Setting up is now quicker and much improved. With bedroll over army blanket and armatures, sleep for night number two comes easy.
Next morning we’re up before sunrise. Kevin motors around the lake before we head to Pony Island Restaurant for a good breakfast.
Morning motoring
We see a green heron at the pier.
heron
After a final roll around the harbor, we head out under full sail. Winds are 10 kts from the east.
Little T forges across the shoals bumping along (and she needs 8″). UNA reaches more northerly to save her ruder in deeper water along the entry channel. They meet again a mile or so out and we run for hours across the Pamlico.
Marsh Cat and Cedar Island ferry.
The ride is a dramatic difference from the day before. No spray and we slip along on a gentle sea.
Once in the Neuse again, we go wing and wing with the main to weather. Thankfully the day has been overcast, keeping the sun off yesterday’s burn. Around 16:00 we pass the shrimp boats resting at the foot of Oriental.
We choose to anchor off Dewey Point near our beginning. Kevin notes we’ve sailed over 95 nautical miles. That is a record for UNA. Knowing that she can and in those conditions is reassuring.
We tour the harbor marinas in Little T. Few of the hundreds of sailboats seen are of interest. Its mostly miles of neglected plastic. The sunset is spectacular.
Oriental
UNA at anchor.
Back at anchor, a swim is refreshing. Dinner is good grilled chicken and rice. Night three is the most restful.
Morning is cool. A slight breeze beckons. Breakfast is coffee and pan made biscuits with butter. The sail to the ramp is short. We’re already planning for next time.
It is not often one gets to go sailing. It is rarer still to sail three different boats in a single day, but that is what happened this past Sunday. Sailing in the early morning was fantastic with Luna up East River. The boys and I then trucked across Mathews County to meet Barry at Freeport Landing. Upstream from the Route 3 bridge on the Piankatank, a private ramp and pier exist now where once a long gone ferry landing was. A $5 honor system allows you acess. A few boats, some more neglected than others rest in sheds along the loop drive in front of a 2-story building. Known as the Freeport Store, it was once the “overnight” building for the Piankatank Steamship Line before ending in 1932 when the automobile eclipsed the ferry’s need.
A nice view of the surrounds is in Barry’s blog from an earlier visit. He really captures the feel of the place. It was his idea to meet there and I’m glad we did. Aside from a few always annoying jets skis, you couldn’t pick a better place for a Sunday sail. Winds were light and temperatures in the low 80’s. The boys and I launched UNA and chased after Barry’s midnight blue Melonseed named “Aeon”.
Barry built two such boats at once in his basement. Talk about pieces of furniture! He lovingly thought about every detail, some I’m sure he borrowed, but others I know he created. All in all, these elegant boats are truly something to gaze at.
Aeon
Farmer Brown and the paparazzi.
I wish I had taken closer pics, but the day was just about messing about in boats as we slid from shore to shore, looking for that ideal shack and pier along the water’s edge. Several met the mark.
Ideal place. Just sink the jet ski.
Luna took us for a morning sail, Una carried us through the afternoon, and I got to take Aeon for a tail end sail. Just me and a small boat. That’s sailing at its essence. Toes dragging in the water as we slid along. I felt like 9 years old again. Thanks Barry!
I learned of the Small Reach Regatta from folks I met last Fall at the Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival (that is UNA in the background of their banner photo). I enjoy Spring or Fall sailing on the Chesapeake most. With July’s broiling temps in VA, Brooklin, Maine seemed ideal. With a rented diesel truck packed with groceries and gear, we hauled UNA and 2 SOF kayaks north. After staggering tolls in New Jersey and New York (highway robbery) we then faced a slow crawl along what seemed to be Connecticut’s only road. So, we stopped in Stonington, CT for the evening. Visiting the harbor we found an LFH “Araminta”, a sprite work boat and others.
L. Francis Herreshoff’s Araminta.
This classic work boat out-shown the inflatable and twin engined plastic boats with ease.
Adding 6 more hours of road time the following day delivered us to cooler temps, pristine air and Brooklin. Our 1905 cabin was perched on Center Harbor. This must be the birthplace for Beetle Cats and Herreshoff 12 1/2’s. Easily a dozen of each swung at their moorings.
Our cabin.
The town is home of WoodenBoat and its surrounds feature famous boat builders and celebrity boats alike.
Dinghy pier.
Beatle Cats in the morning fog.
With a +/-9 foot tidal range, floating piers are ringed with dinghies to ferry owners to their boats large and small.
Brooklin Boatyard’s floating dinghy dock.
Our backyard fit UNA perfectly. She rode her mooring for several days of sailing prior to the SRR. There was one beauty after another sailing or moored in the harbor. Some you may recognize.
backyard
walk to the cabin
UNA at mooring.
another true Rozinante.
Sailed against the WoodenBoat Calendar cover girl Perch one day. I have watched the OCH video a dozen times. UNA seemed to match her pace and weatherly ability. She continues to amaze me.
Covergirl Perch. Herreshoff Fish Class.
The weather was varied the whole week. Fog would burn off with the sunrise. Fresh breezes every afternoon. The only rain fell overnight twice. Lows were in the 60’s. Highs barely scared 80. The kayaks allowed for nearby island exploration. Clambering out of a kayak into UNA was a trick. No dunking occurred though. Sailing amongst beautiful boats was marvelous. You’ll never see these beauties at a US Sailboat Show.
water bug.
On arrival day for SRR, I cast off UNA’s mooring on a pea soup morning to sail her through Naskeag Harbor and around the point to our host site at Atlantic Boat Company on Herrick Bay. Atlantic specializes in motor launches to yachts, is family owned ,and proved a great host for the 4-5 days our 50+ boats swarmed around the piers. It was a great venue for several days of group sailing, eating, and general fun. Will post pics from the event later-
“Got to be true to myself”. That is hard to do in today’s frenetic paced life. Sailing wipes away those distractions and allows one to focus on what is important, here, and now. Such was last week’s sail with the motley crew of Mike, Kevin 1, Barry, Pete, and Kevin 2. Light winds greeted us at Janes Island near Crisfield, MD. Two Marsh Cats, one Haven 12 1/2, a Welsford Navigator, and UNA made up the mid-week fleet. All boats were in by 13:30 where we motored or sailed down to Back Creek. Winds and tide were contrary. Kevin B. in Slip Jig offered UNA a tow. We accepted. Are you still a sail and oar boat if you are assisted?
Tow from Slip Jig
1/2 mile on, we reached the mouth of Back Creek (looks more like a small bay) we raised sail and the chase began after the other boats. UNA traded tacks with Slip Jig several times before she got her footing and took after Jack-A-Roo and Little T. What was a fresh breeze took a lull as UNA and Miss T crossed the shallows of the southern lip of the Annemessex River southeast of Crisfield. We passed my iconic dream house. I wonder how long it will hold out.
Nearly a 1 house island.
Drawing up the centerboard and rudder, we skirted over grasses. Miss T saw turtles. We missed them. The breeze languished, but we had enough to push on.
Peter’s beer. Sorry pal.
Sneaking up on Little T
I find if you set the sails right, UNA will know what to do afterwards. I was hardly moving the tiller at this point. I’m so proud of this boat. After tacking 30+ times up Tylers Ditch toward Tylerton, we gave up fighting the current and headed back to a spoils area near G1. The breeze kept the bugs at bay as we 5 boats raft for dinner and cocktails. The wake from the ferry caught us as masts between Slip Jig and UNA clattered. Rookie mistake. Masts should not be abeam. As the breeze piped up we left Miss T’s anchor and huddled closer to shore. There must have been 1,000 seagulls on the spoils. They didn’t appreciate our presence and let us know it … all night. Pete started an earplug business. Rentals for $10 a night. Setting up the tent still needs fine tuning. Leaving the main mast up was a dramatic difference from use as a ride beam and centerboard lowered. The gunwale loops proved too smart by 1. Snaps may be better served. Driveway tests only go so far. Otherwise, the night was restful. A wool blanket over the new air mattress is a great improvement. I may have to sissy out and bring a legit pillow next time.
Dawn was welcomed. The first ferry out of Tylerton rocked the fleet around 0630. The sunrise was spectacular.
early passing ferry
sunrise
Breakfast was cut oats and coffee. Good on a cool morning.
Storing the tent and goods, we set chase for Jack-A-Roo to complete the beat up Tyler Ditch to Tylerton.
photo by Barry Long
Jack-A-Roo and Mike
This time we beat the current and slipped into Tylerton to view from the water. Generally these islands are clinging on. Sad really. There are too many causes, but the small communities are still charming and picturesque, representing simpler lifestyle. One fellow we met later in Newell over lunch blamed TV. I found it hard to argue. How much of our life have we wasted watching the boob tube?
Kevin “2” and Slip Jig, a Welsford Navigator. Pretty.
From Tylerton we turned west and sailed along Rhodes Point. There is a stark beauty here.
As Falls Wichita, So Falls Wichita Falls- Pat Metheney
This is a video from an old Canon Sure Shot. Not too crisp, but the flavor is there.
Sailing along Rhodes was slow and easy, allowing us to take it all in. Rounding up to Newell, Mike in Jack had hid rudder unship and decided to motor back to Janes. The rest of us ate at the only place open with the season early. The famed crab cakes from Rukes will have to be another trip. Since the weather was predicted to get worse, we headed back to Janes. Pete and Barry gave us a tow into the thoroughfare east as the wind had quit. Shortly afterward the breeze grew and I decided to put in a reef. It was 15 steady and gusting to 20. It was a fighting beat up the Thoroughfare back into Tangier Sound. Great fun, but I think my centerboard is shorter after using it repeatedly as a depth sounder.
Once out, it was a close reach all the way home. Some great sailing was had.
It was a long day, but satisfying. Mike shared his camp site. I made chicken, rice and eggs using my brothers special chipotle sauce.
Sunset was brilliant. I pitched a tent and was out. Didn’t even hear cars pulling into the camp later on. Next thing I knew it was 0600 and raining. Mike and I checked out the water from Crisfield after McD’s. A rough and wet day was observed so, I packed up, said good-bye, and went on to Oxford to meet up with someone to sail another boat the following day. The rest of the crew stayed 2 more days. Beautiful weather did return. It always does.
Beating through the Thoroughfare. Credit: Kevin Brennan.
Just back from a Spring Break sail on our boat “Emily’s Grace”. We’ll post some on that later.
In catching up with emails, I see Steve Early posted a write-up from Mike Wick on our NC trip 2 weeks ago. Steve’s blog “Log of Spartina“, I’ve mentioned before. He has been at this small boat camping/cruising bit for some time and his posts are full of technique, advice, and great photography. Check out his post of Mike’s “postcard“.
Hi! my name is Sebastian (You can call me Seb!) ...welcome to my Blog. I'm a photographer from Worcester, Worcestershire, England. Thanks for dropping by! I hope you enjoy my work.
Gavin Atkin's weblog for the sort of people who like looking inside boat sheds. It's about old boats, traditional boats, boat building, restoration, the sea and the North Kent Coast
Lingering Lunacy 