Katman and Little T met us in Oriental, NC ‘s public ramp next to the Route 55 bridge on Midyette Ave. About a dozen parked trailers indicates it is heavily used by fishermen in the area. This ramp is concrete and flanked by two nice floating piers. For the next three days, the winds are predicted to be out of the NE, shifting more easterly on the third day. Our goal, 40 miles away as the crow flies, was Ocracoke Island. That puts the wind on the nose outward bound. Around 10:30 we were rigged and under way.

The wind was crisp at 10 kts with gusts to 12-15. The NE direction was steady and only a few headers made tacking necessary with the inevitable Neuse River shoreline. It is a wide river with as much as a 5 mile girth in places. Once at the mouth, the wind dropped out. We anchored behind Swan Island on the north shore for the night. The evening gave a wonderful sunset while rafting and brilliant stars once we set tents for the night.

Una and Little T

At Swan Island

Katman (aka KMac)

At some point around midnight a motor boat roars into the anchorage which is protected by 1 foot shoaling at both ends of the island. I grabbed the flashlight, ready to point us out when the speeding boat was stopped as they dug up the bottom. Some choice country words were heard as the boat then slowly proceeded t the back of the small bay. They were out for the fish and could be heard having success as they came back rowing along the far shore. The mosquitoes were also out all night and only a towel over the head kept them at bay.

Skipjack “Wilma Lee”

Named the Wilma Lee, she is over 70 years old, donated to Ocracoke Alive, Inc. ( a non-profit), and is for hire to sail. She happens to be one of only 32 skipjacks left afloat out of a fleet of once 800. More of her history can be read here.

Morning motoring

heron

After a final roll around the harbor, we head out under full sail. Winds are 10 kts from the east.

Little T forges across the shoals bumping along (and she needs 8″). UNA reaches more northerly to save her ruder in deeper water along the entry channel. They meet again a mile or so out and we run for hours across the Pamlico.

Marsh Cat and Cedar Island ferry.

The ride is a dramatic difference from the day before. No spray and we slip along on a gentle sea.

Once in the Neuse again, we go wing and wing with the main to weather. Thankfully the day has been overcast, keeping the sun off yesterday’s burn. Around 16:00 we pass the shrimp boats resting at the foot of Oriental.

 

We choose to anchor off Dewey Point near our beginning. Kevin notes we’ve sailed over 95 nautical miles. That is a record for UNA. Knowing that she can and in those conditions is reassuring.

We tour the harbor marinas in Little T. Few of the hundreds of sailboats seen are of interest. Its mostly miles of neglected plastic. The sunset is spectacular.

Oriental

UNA at anchor.

Back at anchor, a swim is refreshing. Dinner is good grilled chicken and rice. Night three is the most restful.

Morning is cool. A slight breeze beckons. Breakfast is coffee and pan made biscuits with butter. The sail to the ramp is short. We’re already planning for next time.

Over 95 miles of moving on. This is actually the return run.

I learned of the Small Reach Regatta from folks I met last Fall at the Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival (that is UNA in the background of their banner photo). I enjoy Spring or Fall sailing on the Chesapeake most. With July’s broiling temps in VA, Brooklin, Maine seemed ideal. With a rented diesel truck packed with groceries and gear, we hauled UNA and 2 SOF kayaks north. After staggering tolls in New Jersey and New York (highway robbery) we then faced a slow crawl along what seemed to be Connecticut’s only road. So, we stopped in Stonington, CT for the evening. Visiting the harbor we found an LFH “Araminta”, a sprite work boat and others.

L. Francis Herreshoff’s Araminta.

This classic work boat out-shown the inflatable and twin engined plastic boats with ease.
Adding 6 more hours of road time the following day delivered us to cooler temps, pristine air and Brooklin. Our 1905 cabin was perched on Center Harbor. This must be the birthplace for Beetle Cats and Herreshoff 12 1/2’s. Easily a dozen of each swung at their moorings.

Our cabin.

The town is home of WoodenBoat and its surrounds feature famous boat builders and celebrity boats alike.

Dinghy pier.

Beatle Cats in the morning fog.

With a +/-9 foot tidal range, floating piers are ringed with dinghies to ferry owners to their boats large and small.

Brooklin Boatyard’s floating dinghy dock.

Our backyard fit UNA perfectly. She rode her mooring for several days of sailing prior to the SRR. There was one beauty after another sailing or moored in the harbor. Some you may recognize.

backyard

walk to the cabin

UNA at mooring.

another true Rozinante.

Sailed against the WoodenBoat Calendar cover girl Perch one day. I have watched the OCH video a dozen times. UNA seemed to match her pace and weatherly ability. She continues to amaze me.

Covergirl Perch. Herreshoff Fish Class.

The weather was varied the whole week. Fog would burn off with the sunrise. Fresh breezes every afternoon. The only rain fell overnight twice. Lows were in the 60’s. Highs barely scared 80. The kayaks allowed for nearby island exploration. Clambering out of a kayak into UNA was a trick. No dunking occurred though. Sailing amongst beautiful boats was marvelous. You’ll never see these beauties at a US Sailboat Show.

water bug.

On arrival day for SRR, I cast off UNA’s mooring on a pea soup morning to sail her through Naskeag Harbor and around the point to our host site at Atlantic Boat Company on Herrick Bay. Atlantic specializes in motor launches to yachts, is family owned ,and proved a great host for the 4-5 days our 50+ boats swarmed around the piers. It was a great venue for several days of group sailing, eating, and general fun. Will post pics from the event later-

“Got to be true to myself”. That is hard to do in today’s frenetic paced life. Sailing wipes away those distractions and allows one to focus on what is important, here, and now. Such was last week’s sail with the motley crew of Mike, Kevin 1, Barry, Pete, and Kevin 2. Light winds greeted us at Janes Island near Crisfield, MD. Two Marsh Cats, one Haven 12 1/2, a Welsford Navigator, and UNA made up the mid-week fleet. All boats were in by 13:30 where we motored or sailed down to Back Creek. Winds and tide were contrary. Kevin B. in Slip Jig offered UNA a tow. We accepted. Are you still a sail and oar boat if you are assisted?

Tow from Slip Jig

1/2 mile on, we reached the mouth of Back Creek (looks more like a small bay) we raised sail and the chase began after the other boats. UNA traded tacks with Slip Jig several times before she got her footing and took after Jack-A-Roo and Little T. What was a fresh breeze took a lull as UNA and Miss T crossed the shallows of the southern lip of the Annemessex River southeast of Crisfield. We passed my iconic dream house. I wonder how long it will hold out.

Nearly a 1 house island.

Drawing up the centerboard and rudder, we skirted over grasses. Miss T saw turtles. We missed them. The breeze languished, but we had enough to push on.

Peter’s beer. Sorry pal.

Sneaking up on Little T

I find if you set the sails right, UNA will know what to do afterwards. I was hardly moving the tiller at this point. I’m so proud of this boat. After tacking 30+ times up Tylers Ditch toward Tylerton, we gave up fighting the current and headed back to a spoils area near G1. The breeze kept the bugs at bay as we 5 boats raft for dinner and cocktails. The wake from the ferry caught us as masts between Slip Jig and UNA clattered. Rookie mistake. Masts should not be abeam.  As the breeze piped up we left Miss T’s anchor and huddled closer to shore. There must have been 1,000 seagulls on the spoils. They didn’t appreciate our presence and let us know it … all night. Pete started an earplug business. Rentals for $10 a night. Setting up the tent still needs fine tuning. Leaving the main mast up was a dramatic difference from use as a ride beam and centerboard lowered. The gunwale loops proved too smart by 1. Snaps may be better served. Driveway tests only go so far. Otherwise, the night was restful. A wool blanket over the new air mattress is a great improvement.  I may have to sissy out and bring a legit pillow next time.

Dawn was welcomed. The first ferry out of Tylerton rocked the fleet around 0630. The sunrise was spectacular.

early passing ferry

sunrise

Breakfast was cut oats and coffee. Good on a cool morning.

Storing the tent and goods, we set chase for Jack-A-Roo to complete the beat up Tyler Ditch to Tylerton.

photo by Barry Long

Jack-A-Roo and Mike

This time we beat the current and slipped into Tylerton to view from the water. Generally these islands are clinging on. Sad really. There are too many causes, but the small communities are still charming and picturesque, representing simpler lifestyle. One fellow we met later in Newell over lunch blamed TV. I found it hard to argue. How much of our life have we wasted watching the boob tube?

Kevin “2” and Slip Jig, a Welsford Navigator. Pretty.

 

From Tylerton we turned west and sailed along Rhodes Point. There is a stark beauty here.

As Falls Wichita, So Falls Wichita Falls- Pat Metheney

This is a video from an old Canon Sure Shot. Not too crisp, but the flavor is there.

 

Sailing along Rhodes was slow and easy, allowing us to take it all in. Rounding up to Newell, Mike in Jack had hid rudder unship and decided to motor back to Janes. The rest of us ate at the only place open with the season early. The famed crab cakes from Rukes will have to be another trip. Since the weather was predicted to get worse, we headed back to Janes. Pete and Barry gave us a tow into the thoroughfare east as the wind had quit. Shortly afterward the breeze grew and I decided to put in a reef. It was 15 steady and gusting to 20. It was a fighting beat up the Thoroughfare back into Tangier Sound. Great fun, but I think my centerboard is shorter after using it repeatedly as a depth sounder.

Once out, it was a close reach all the way home. Some great sailing was had.

It was a long day, but satisfying. Mike shared his camp site. I made chicken, rice and eggs using my brothers special chipotle sauce.

 

Sunset was brilliant. I pitched a tent and was out. Didn’t even hear cars pulling into the camp later on. Next thing I knew it was 0600 and raining. Mike and I checked out the water from Crisfield after McD’s. A rough and wet day was observed so, I packed up, said good-bye, and went on to Oxford to meet up with someone to sail another boat the following day. The rest of the crew stayed 2 more days. Beautiful weather did return. It always does.

Beating through the Thoroughfare. Credit: Kevin Brennan.

ADIOS AMIGOS!

Just back from a Spring Break sail on our boat “Emily’s Grace”. We’ll post some on that later.

In catching up with emails, I see Steve Early posted a write-up from Mike Wick on our NC trip 2 weeks ago. Steve’s blog “Log of Spartina“, I’ve mentioned before. He has been at this small boat camping/cruising bit for some time and his posts are full of technique, advice, and great photography. Check out his post of Mike’s “postcard“.

Peter, Mike, and of course, Nip.

I just picked up a post by my pal Curt on “Thin Water Annie”. His artistic eye puts my photos to shame. Thought I’d share. Check it out: “On The Pungo River”

Curt’s lens.

Single reefed and getting to windward.

I got invited to take a few days sailing on the edge of the season. Not surprisingly, it offered a mixed bag of conditions from near calm to high Force 5, from cold and rain to warmth and sun. We put in at Belhaven, NC’s fine public boat ramp. Three boats attended: Nip a Caledonia Yawl and Annie a wooden Drascombe Lugger with small cuddy.

John and Peter with Nip at the put-in.

South side of breakwater.

Blowing 12 kts we all took in a reef in the main just before the breakwater and sailed to weather SE up Pungo Creek.

Annie scooting along to leeward.

Lunch beach.

I realize the limits of an iPhone for photos, but it is always handy. Pups are taken that might otherwise be missed in my case.

beached break.

canopy.

It was as pretty an afternoon as you could ask for. Breeze and 60 degrees.

studious John.

I turned my back on John, and shortly after, he was napping against the tree. It’s cool to be with people that know how to hang loose. There’s no agenda. Just love the day.

Paradiso.

We rafted for the evening, believed the light wind predictions, and had a rough cold night in the bottom of a boat. Comes with the joy sometimes. And the stars were brilliant. Morning wasn’t much warmer. Three boats bobbed at anchor as we crept from under blankets.

red sky at morning.

Dawn soon became grey and blustery. Stuffing the sleeping bags (2 were required), air pad, and wool blanket makes one appreciate a small cabin such as Annie’s where the whole lot can be just left below, ready for the next snooze. However, hot oatmeal and coffee get us moving. Donning a wool sweater, foulies, knit cap, and a reef sets us free.

Nip and Annie

The day soon disintegrated to cold and showers just as we landed at Cee Bee Marina near noonday. The term marina in this case is very suspect. A decrepit wharf and camper lot is more apt.  Somebody, who don’t know his role still, took $5 from John and said we could stay. Given “permission” to stay, we quickly appropriated a pavilion to wait out the rain, do some eating, and whatever needed to wash it all down.

UNA tethered.

The sky did finally clear for a wonderful relaxed sail along the creek.

 

 

pelican by the moon.

UNA at rest for the night.

Enjoyed a sunset chat with Peter by the wharf as we looked for Annie’s return. The light was beautiful.

Curt, Mike, John, and Annie.

Dinner was good, though the party was short lived. One by one the crew dissolved into the night. John and I were last to share some of his port over a few tales before we called it quits.

As it turned out, the night was not quiet. Between Canada Geese squawking and raccoons fighting, silence seemed too unbearable to them. We may have been the cause of a territorial dispute, but at least a solo tent pitched on the banks made it warm. Daybreak was crystal clear and calm.

Somebody’s yachts.

 

With a lazy breakfast at the pavilion, camp was broken and we went searching for the light breeze. All of the inconveniences made this day’s sail worth it.

Art: Pedro and his mustang.

Here is an iPhone video for flavor later that morning. UNA was in heaven. I was glad to be with her. “Nothing could be finer than to be in Carolina …”

Bare feet, sun on one’s shoulders, and a breeze is enough to cure all ills. Everything seems new. Even “Running Like The Wind” by The Marshall Tucker Band was heard for the first time, again, after hundreds of previous playings. All good stuff.

This morning’s light breeze morphed into a single then double reef romp to windward up Pamlico River before we all turned off wind to reach along and up Pungo River. The temps and evergreen shores reminded me of Maine.

Mike, Peter and Nip.

Traded leads with Nip along the way. Peter tossed a slab of his ancient baloney, a Pennsylvania salami into UNA’s cockpit. Much appreciated.

best baloney.

Days can’t be without trials, but this one picture summed up  the afternoon. It was a great trip with a bunch of guys who love being on the water, messing about in boats.

at Pantego bridge.

An unusual warmth and breeze proved too tempting this morning. Temps were in the mid 60’s. I can’t recall sailing this early in the year before, unless the Caribbean counts. With winds at 10-12 mph conditions looked perfect. So, we hooked up UNA. Hauling south for about an hour from home got us to Lake Chesdin. Built as a reservoir for Chesterfield County, it has good depth and much of it remains undeveloped shoreline. Some had rock outcroppings with pines reminiscent of Maine.

The SE end of this long water has 2 public ramps separated by a small pier. It all worked quite well. 30 minutes to rig and off we were for a wonderful afternoon. The crystal blue skies and warmth of the sun felt fantastic while slouched in the cockpit watching cormorants, terns, and great heron take wing along the way. An occasional whiff of wood fires only added to the scene. A few coves beckoned for another visit, perhaps for an overnighter.  The lake is fed by the Appomattox River. We sailed in that direction for about 1.5 hrs to weather to turn and reach back for about an hour back to the ramp. There were perhaps a half dozen bass boaters seen along the way. They too wanted to stay in practice I suppose. All was a needed break from the winter doldrums here. Take a look-

One of my favorite blogs is a creation of Barry Long.

Barry and Aeon.

His Marginalia, an “infrequent repository of mostly new stuff,” shares not only his keen eye through the camera, but also offers reflections on his travels and the occasional observations of beauty we all too often overlook. Barry writes very well and his photos are wonderful. After corresponding for a few years mostly about boats (Barry’s pair of Melonseeds he built in a basement are gorgeous), we finally got to meet in St. Michaels. I didn’t know he had taken photographs of UNA, but I’m happy she caught his eye. Barry’s appreciation of some of her details remind me of what was an enjoyable build.

A Barry pic.

Hopefully, we’ll  get to sail with Barry when warmer climes return.